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Sniper2 Mojo
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Building and then tuning a sniper is all about personal preference - and in a way, about balance. Each of following sections speaks to maximizing a certain aspect of performance - but usually at the cost of another. Ill wrap up with a summary of my favorite piecy parts and settings.
HAMMER: CCM hammer (nice, heavy and ready), uber light pump return spring, and pollish up the guide rods. then bring pressure up to compinsate for light main spring. CHANNEL/LUG: If this doesnt do it, look to the lug, lower tube, and the little channel the lug travels in - especially in the older bodies. I've seen plenty of beat up lug channels and nasty anno jobs that put friction on the hammer. this will also improve shot to shot consistancy LUG: I would maybe consider trying to adjust the trigger sear such that you can raise the lug some. less lug = less friction, and sears are easy to adjust. Ditch the slider and get a hinge. BOLT: Your bolt may have o-rings. I personally really like the aluminum Belsales Supercharger bolts -- I normally keep several on hand. It is amazing how one bolt fits dramatically different from the next. Harbor freight carries these uber oring kits which come in handy for adjusting the bolts and how they travel in the upper tube. your upper tube must be lubed for orings. I dig light AM FLO air tool oil. (I also use this in my Stabilizers) Your bolt should float friction free in the upper tube. COCKING ROD: Cock your pump, and look into the feed tube. Right
as the sear catches the lug, your bolt should barely clear the breach.
This distance can be adjusted by adjusting the little thing on end of
the cocking rod. #10 neoprene orings help this adjustment as well. just
slide them on the cocking rod - kind of old school, but arent we all?
note: Many tips here will decrease efficiency, and lessen consistancy. This article is all about QUIET.
#2) Get the pressure down -- 350 is a good goal, and 180 for the crazys out there. A higher volume, lower pressure pop on the ball >> higher pressure, lower volume pop -- and more stable ball as it exits the barrel. The lower the pressure, the more quiet the shot. #3) More barrel, and port it - alot. My favorite oldschool barrel has to the original 16" All American for quiet. The Bob Long "longshot" is a step above accuracy wise, but I think the AA is the quietest.. In new school, any of the 16" heavily ported barrels will do. I would lean to the 16" new style STO Kaner kit for the best "quiet" barrel kit. WGP made a pretty monumental error in discontinuing these. So far, most of the Sniper 2 fans out there already knew this stuff. #4) JAM Enterprises made an open faced spring loaded bolt that essentially accomplished the same thing as not holding the pump handle. The initial blast drives the bolt back 1/2" against the pressure of the internal bolt spring. Now if you dont hold the pump handle also, it gets even quieter. You run the risk of double feeding and a heavy pump return spring is advisable to dial this in. This mod makes a huge difference in quieting down that sniper --much, much, much more so than any of the "silencers" of the early 90s. #5) One shot silly. Give them fewer shots to hear. I know its elementary, but it seems a lot of new school kiddies love their ATs. There is a time to be noisy, and a time to be quiet - lest we forget. This is why the right feed bodies are favored by the oldschool pump ballers. #6) Neoprene that hopper .. to keep the raddeling down. #7) Loose the tubes and pods : there has to be nothing noisier than a pack full of pods or a harness full of tubes running through the woods. I personally like the old thick-walled 90 round whaler feeds w/ neoprene cover and no spare paint. I also run a 200rnd 9V revy w/ neoprene for big games/scenarios when I know Ill be out for a few hours. #8) Quiet that pump kit... I know a lot of guys will cringe at this, but man a lot of metal on metal pump kits go "click, click, click" -- Personally I lean delrin (handles) and steel (pump rods) and aluminum (guide rods). #9) Full Length Springs : I believe you want your main spring full length, with one turn in on the ivg. This should prevent the "TWANG" and give the most consistant performance.. This can fight against any ultra low pressure goals. #10) CO2 or HPA) Palmer theories that CO2 expands slower than HPA. It would be cool to do a sound test at a fixed pressure. I would lean HPA if going < 350psi, and CO2 if content at 300-350 and playing in SC with a well broken in STAB. Bodies: my choice body for going uberquiet? I would lean to 2k0,2k1 stock RF WGP, or 97-99 RF Free Flow as ideal platforms to begin with. Reason being lower pressures begin w/ larger valve chambers. (But I play Belsales Evo's) Valves: for < 350, you better be thinking AKA Tornado, maybe MADDMANN rocket valve, or maybe free flow. For 350+, any valve will do. CCMs, FREE FLOWS and BELSALES are all extreamly well made - lots of stainless, and flow well. (Side note: Ive lost love for the RAT 3:16's -- the aluminum stuff just gets beat up too easily) Ive never messed with PPS's LT valve - but I hear good things. Regs : HPA: AKA Sidewinder for max volume. C02: Palmer 0-700 PSI STAB anyone care to add?
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WGP SNIPER 2 PIECY PART
FAQS
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Disclaimer : Section8 a scenario paintball team, has never been a business, nor will it every be a business. Section8 has nothing to sell - goods or services. All information on this site is intended for Section8 members. If you find anything on this site that you find contrary to this statement - please bring it to the attention of a team member and we will work to resolve the confusion.
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