Sniper2 Mojo
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Sniper2 Mojo
by Thumper 8.25.2008


I've compiled a few tips Ive posted to various places about tuning Sniper2s.. enjoy

Building and then tuning a sniper is all about personal preference - and in a way, about balance. Each of following sections speaks to maximizing a certain aspect of performance - but usually at the cost of another. Ill wrap up with a summary of my favorite piecy parts and settings.

The Perfect Pump Stroke :


SPRINGS: green maddman main spring and valve spring, IVG all the way out, then in 1 turn,

HAMMER: CCM hammer (nice, heavy and ready), uber light pump return spring, and pollish up the guide rods.

then bring pressure up to compinsate for light main spring.

CHANNEL/LUG: If this doesnt do it, look to the lug, lower tube, and the little channel the lug travels in - especially in the older bodies. I've seen plenty of beat up lug channels and nasty anno jobs that put friction on the hammer. this will also improve shot to shot consistancy

LUG: I would maybe consider trying to adjust the trigger sear such that you can raise the lug some. less lug = less friction, and sears are easy to adjust. Ditch the slider and get a hinge.

BOLT: Your bolt may have o-rings. I personally really like the aluminum Belsales Supercharger bolts -- I normally keep several on hand. It is amazing how one bolt fits dramatically different from the next. Harbor freight carries these uber oring kits which come in handy for adjusting the bolts and how they travel in the upper tube. your upper tube must be lubed for orings. I dig light AM FLO air tool oil. (I also use this in my Stabilizers) Your bolt should float friction free in the upper tube.

COCKING ROD: Cock your pump, and look into the feed tube. Right as the sear catches the lug, your bolt should barely clear the breach. This distance can be adjusted by adjusting the little thing on end of the cocking rod. #10 neoprene orings help this adjustment as well. just slide them on the cocking rod - kind of old school, but arent we all?

 

QUIET that Sniper 2:

note: Many tips here will decrease efficiency, and lessen consistancy. This article is all about QUIET.


#1) dont hold the pump handle silly... the initial blast will drive the bolt back 1/2" against the pressure of the pump return spring - and that blast wont be heard. Ironically this can actually speed up the velocity - so if you use this technique, chrony using the "hold" and "no-hold" techniques. Why this occures is theorized to be related to decreased initial deformation on the ball resulting in decreased initial drag on the ball. (This technique also works pretty well on the PYRE.) The ball regains initial shape faster, the goo inside becomes stable faster - and the ball flies better.... i.e., the legend of the sniper II.

#2) Get the pressure down -- 350 is a good goal, and 180 for the crazys out there. A higher volume, lower pressure pop on the ball >> higher pressure, lower volume pop -- and more stable ball as it exits the barrel. The lower the pressure, the more quiet the shot.

#3) More barrel, and port it - alot. My favorite oldschool barrel has to the original 16" All American for quiet. The Bob Long "longshot" is a step above accuracy wise, but I think the AA is the quietest.. In new school, any of the 16" heavily ported barrels will do. I would lean to the 16" new style STO Kaner kit for the best "quiet" barrel kit. WGP made a pretty monumental error in discontinuing these.

So far, most of the Sniper 2 fans out there already knew this stuff.

#4) JAM Enterprises made an open faced spring loaded bolt that essentially accomplished the same thing as not holding the pump handle. The initial blast drives the bolt back 1/2" against the pressure of the internal bolt spring. Now if you dont hold the pump handle also, it gets even quieter. You run the risk of double feeding and a heavy pump return spring is advisable to dial this in. This mod makes a huge difference in quieting down that sniper --much, much, much more so than any of the "silencers" of the early 90s.

#5) One shot silly. Give them fewer shots to hear. I know its elementary, but it seems a lot of new school kiddies love their ATs. There is a time to be noisy, and a time to be quiet - lest we forget. This is why the right feed bodies are favored by the oldschool pump ballers.

#6) Neoprene that hopper .. to keep the raddeling down.

#7) Loose the tubes and pods : there has to be nothing noisier than a pack full of pods or a harness full of tubes running through the woods. I personally like the old thick-walled 90 round whaler feeds w/ neoprene cover and no spare paint. I also run a 200rnd 9V revy w/ neoprene for big games/scenarios when I know Ill be out for a few hours.

#8) Quiet that pump kit... I know a lot of guys will cringe at this, but man a lot of metal on metal pump kits go "click, click, click" -- Personally I lean delrin (handles) and steel (pump rods) and aluminum (guide rods).

#9) Full Length Springs : I believe you want your main spring full length, with one turn in on the ivg. This should prevent the "TWANG" and give the most consistant performance.. This can fight against any ultra low pressure goals.

#10) CO2 or HPA) Palmer theories that CO2 expands slower than HPA. It would be cool to do a sound test at a fixed pressure. I would lean HPA if going < 350psi, and CO2 if content at 300-350 and playing in SC with a well broken in STAB.

Bodies: my choice body for going uberquiet? I would lean to 2k0,2k1 stock RF WGP, or 97-99 RF Free Flow as ideal platforms to begin with. Reason being lower pressures begin w/ larger valve chambers. (But I play Belsales Evo's)

Valves: for < 350, you better be thinking AKA Tornado, maybe MADDMANN rocket valve, or maybe free flow. For 350+, any valve will do. CCMs, FREE FLOWS and BELSALES are all extreamly well made - lots of stainless, and flow well. (Side note: Ive lost love for the RAT 3:16's -- the aluminum stuff just gets beat up too easily) Ive never messed with PPS's LT valve - but I hear good things.

Regs : HPA: AKA Sidewinder for max volume. C02: Palmer 0-700 PSI STAB

anyone care to add?

 

2008 update my favorite piecy parts & settings these days:

Body

98 Right Feed Belsales Evolution

Frame

Bob Long 45 Humpback w/ custom hinge job + Hogue palm swells panels
Pump Kit
WGP Delrin w/ WWA 99/2k Guide Rod

Main Spring

Maddman Green

Hammer

CCM

Cocking Rod

CCM

Valve

Belsales

Valve Spring

Maddman Green

Bolt

Belsales aluminum venturi

Reg

Palmer Stabilizer (set around 375psi)

Bottom Line ASA

XSV Profile

Hopper

100 round Sport Shot w/ Pumpenstein mod + neoprene cover

Tank

9oz CO2 w/ Smart valve + neoprene cover

Barrel Kit

12" New Style STO Kaner (looks great, works great w/ Draxxus)
12" Old Style STO Kaner (looks fine, exceptional w/ Draxxus)
12" SLY - when the paint is less than excellent, or the weather stinks.

Autotrigger
Ive made my own, messed w/ CCMs, and PUMP (KOA's) and right now Im enjoying the reliability of having none.
Oil
AMFLO air tool oil. (from Harbor Freight) for bolt, hammer, and Stab.

 


 

 


WGP SNIPER 2 PIECY PART FAQS

Disclaimer : Section8 a scenario paintball team, has never been a business, nor will it every be a business. Section8 has nothing to sell - goods or services. All information on this site is intended for Section8 members. If you find anything on this site that you find contrary to this statement - please bring it to the attention of a team member and we will work to resolve the confusion.

SNIPER 2 - Pump Kits

Warning: Autockers come in a few flavors and the pump kit manufactuers below MAY have what you need, but you better have you duckies in a row before you order.. The four main categories of pump kits are minicocker, 2K, 99 and trilogy. Personally I use the 2k Stock style w/ a necked down to '99 guide rod on my main stuff and own several CCMs.

WGP Stock 2K Delrin - perhaps on ebay

These delrin pump handles have a fine texture that allows smooth operations after things get messy. They are light weight compared to CCM.

Warning : these generally dont work well w/ Dye UL barrels. (they rub together)

CCM Delux : heavy duty stuff. 2K and 99 Kits available. Chipley invented the secondary guide rod that helps prevent twisting.

http://www.chipleymachine.com/

SNIPER 2 - Barrel Kits

A barrel kit is easlily the best upgrade for any Sniper 2. Obviously cocker threaded. My personal refferences are listed in order below.

WGP Old Style Kaner - -- No longer made - available on ebay.

  • 4 backs, 3 front (10",12",14")
  • Prices range from $65 to $140 for a full kit in good condition.
  • When I set my markers at 400psi, I get exceptional performance out of the 12" tip. Deadly accurate and very quiet.
  • TIP: Use the oring on the back.
  • These kits LOVE Draxxus Hellfire and if you cant get that, the Xball from Wal-mart does nearly as well.

WGP New Style Kaner - 5 backs, 3 fronts, zippered case --

  • Available at Compulsive Paintball $184.95 www.compulsivepaintball.com
  • I don't play my new kit much, but I generally use the 14" tip when set at 400psi. I don't think the 12" tip is ported sufficiently on the new style.
  • The tips are 12, 14" & 16"
  • The backs are .682, .684, .687, .689, and .691. Now with longer backs from easy removal and an all new look!
  • http://www.doropaintball.com

pics on evo-sniper2

Sly : Sly makes a tapered bore carbon fiber I've used. If the Kaner's were not available I would look to Sly. Very good stuff. Chappy runs a Sly kit and swears by it. Kyle used to until he got Sean's blue new style Kaner. Now Kyle prefers his Kaner new style kits.

  • http://www.slyequipment.com

 

SNIPER 2 - Bodies

Things get a bit "religious" when serious Sniper2 fans speak of which body they prefer - but MOST general prefer the older, somewhat heavier gear over the overly milled newer stuff - the reasoning extended beyond reliability and into "stability" thinking. Sniper2's also take full advantage of dot scoped optics - which require a site rail. Since WGP quit making right-feed markers in 2003, that means buying used stuff - and in this market EBAY rules the world.

Ill list my stuff in some order of preference

Belsales Evolution Body - Right Feed (94-99)

Belsales is an English company that built their reputation on quality control instead of aftermarket components. They TUNED the gear - specializing in the Evolution Autococker. These markers sold for $1000 in 94-2k3 but crashed in price once WGP started their electro efforts.

pics of my evo collection
Joker's 99 RF evo-X -- excellent

Free Flow RF

pic of my old red FF - now owned by Big Bear
pics of Bear and Raptor working their FFs out at Ball Busters -

WGP 2k0-2k2 right feed

From 2000 to 2002 WGP enlarged the valve chamber and milled the bodies some more.

pic of my old Magic 8 Ball - now owned by Big Bear

CCM S5

Chipley machine made a great marker w/ the Series 5 - and if you are a vert feed fan, I highly recommend this body. CCM's internals and frames are likewise exceptional.

larger pic

 

Why aren't CCM S6, Karni, Midblocked, minied, turtled, and migited bodies on my list of favs? : In my opinion things have gone to far "milling" wise and the markers have become unreliable - even fragile.

SNIPER 2 - GRIP FRAMES

Its all personal when it comes to trigger's and frames - but a true sniper has a relaxed angle on the wrist for aimed shots. I list my personal favorites below and in order of personal preference.

Bob Long 45 hump back w/ custom hinge and hogue palm swells

A hard to find item. KAPP made a similar one. Both are heavy duty and dependable.

Ebay : good luck.

larger
pics of my evo collection

Original WGP Sniper 2 - Pot Metal Hinge w/ Original Trigger Guts and PMI Rubber Grips

The Bad News : Budd quit making these frames in '96 and they are not made very well and tend to die after 8 years of usage - so good luck.

The Good News : I you do find one with the original hinge trigger guts and sear - I recommend the rounded lugs - and a fairly OPEN tollerence in your lug depth. Polish the lug and sear face for incredible results. WARNING: It is easy to go to far.
larger-left larger-right

 

Why not CCM 86 or 45 or 45 slim frames?

Tried 'um. like these better. Certaily CCM frames are easy to find.

 

Why not DYE single swing?

Tried 'um. Like these better.

RED DOT SCOPES

Normally Ide say "you get what you pay for" but not so with Red Dot Scopes - these scopes below are excellent and priced way below their TASCO and ADCO counter parts. I use these on several markers. For Sniper II's these 1" scopes do great. For semi auto's you may want to consider 30MM to 40MM.

I remember when I first started playing Paintball, a few close friends and I were playing outlaw ball and we invited a local legend "Sneaky Pete" Hernandez. As we geared up, Sneaky Pete broke out his phantom pump, and it was topped with a red dot scope. We all popped away with our VM68s, and Pete proceeded to pick pine cones out of a tall pine. We stood in awe as the demonstration continued. After hitting 20 cones in a row, I found a strong respect for the gentleman - and a heathy fear of what he was capable of.

As we played that day, Pete was able to hold his own against the semiautomatic fire, using skilled movement and accurate fire to efficiently dispatch us one by one.

A year of so later, I picked up a Sniper II from a Clay Dirt - and I was amazed at the long range accuracy the pump marker produced. Few markers could take advantage of an optical site - but the Sniper II was certainly an exception. And around 1995 I started using Sniper II's - red dot equipped. Since that time I've experimented with 50mm, 40mm, 30mm, 1", armson, and the lesser varieties. While 50mm and 40mm scopes may serve the semi-auto well, my preference for a pump marker is a 1" tube design with a 5moa or 4moa dot.

Target Sports 1" Red Dot 20mm Lens w/ Rings
Brand New • Matte Black • High Quality Red Dot • Sharp Bright Field Of View • Fully Coated and Heavy Duty Recoil • GREAT PRICE For A Great Optic!
TAR18 --
available here: http://www.cdnninvestments.com/tasp1reddot21.html

Note: it comes w/ the wrong rings -- needs 1" to 3/8" dove tail rings

Accushot 1" Delux Medium Rings
RGPM25M4
available here: http://www.cdnninvestments.com/ac1aidemerin.html
BEC 1" 3/8" Grooved High Aluminum Rings
Brand New • Fits 22/AG or 3/8" Grooved Base • 1" High Aluminum Rings
BECRAL2000
available here: http://www.cdnninvestments.com/bec12238.html

Target Sports 1" Red Dot 20mm Lens w/ Rings
Brand New • Matte Black • High Quality Red Dot • Sharp Bright Field Of View • Fully Coated and Heavy Duty Recoil • GREAT PRICE For A Great Optic!
TAR19
available here: http://www.cdnninvestments.com/tasp1reddot2.html

Note: it comes w/ the wrong rings -- needs 1" to 3/8" dove tail rings

Nikon Rimfire 1" 3/8" Grooved Medium Aluminim Silver Rings
NIK7236

available here: http://www.cdnninvestments.com/niri122or3gr.html
Regulators

To get the most bank out of your sniper II, you will want to drop the pressure. Most of the serious players I know tend to set their Snipers between 300PSI and 400PSI. Personally I prefer 350 PSI to 400PSI. I also love playing on 16oz CO2 tanks. They are extremely efficient and I can generally play recball all day on half a fill or a whole scenario on 1 to 2 fills. This saves a ton of time and keeps me on the field. In this world of CO2 regulators there is a KING - The Palmer Stabilizer.

PALMER STABILIZER (0-700PSI)

http://www.palmer-pursuit.com

These require a few thousand shots to break in - so dont freak out if you have problems with a new one.

I use the 0-700psi (regular) variety. These also come in low and high pressure versions - but I advise against either variation. (Ive used PPS Fatty's, Air America Uniregs, ANS GEN-X, WGP inline, MAXFLO and had experience w/ CP.)

OIL : I use AMFLO air tool oil. (from Harbor Freight) for my stabs. 5 drops in the ASA every other outing. If you dont use this, please dont use any regular oil w/ solvents. It will disolve your black orings real quick.

AKA SIDEWINDER

For HPA fans, I dont know of anyone disappointed with the AKA sidewinders. If you are going for uber-low pressure, this is a must.

http://www.compulsivepaintball.com

 

Autococker Bolts

In the land of Autockcocker Bolts there is a lot of theory - and very little is proven. If you have a Barrel Kit you love and a regulator you swear by and you are itching to do "just one more thing" - well thats when it makes sence to look at your bolt. Personally Ive seen great performance from just things that should not work well - but I do have some theorys I hold strongly to. My personal THEORY is this : A 6 hole venturi bolt with angled vents and a long sloted intake allows for the pressure to be releases to the ball on the edges and not focused at the middle of the ball. This results in less deformation on the ball - helping it holds its shape as it accellerates. The long sloted intake allows the pump operator to "not hold the pump handle" and as the pump kicks back, the air will continute to vent into the bolt for that extra 1/4" - possibly allowing for a more consistant blast.

A word of WARNING : bolts come in different lengths - (from tip of bolt to back of pin hole)

  • 5 1/2" -- 99 lengths
  • 5 1/4" -- 2K length
  • 4 13/16" -- pblock (evolution style"

Back blocks also come in different styles and 99 and 2K back blocks seem interchangeable - but the hole for the pull pit are spaced 1/4" different -- A 2K back block can make a 2k bolt fit a 99 body and visa versa - a 99 back block can make a 99 bolt fit a 2k Body. - But you dont want to mix a 99 back block and a 2k bolt - or visa versa.

Here are my favorite bolts listed in order of personal preference

Belsales supercharge bolt --

  • All aluminum - sloted intake, 6 hold design
  • "Supercharger diffuser bolt for Autocockers (known in some markets as the Evolution Bolt for Autococker). Lightweight bolt with six angled ports for ultra accuracy, produces a low pressure, very gentle pop on the ball which makes ball "blow throughs" a thing of the past. Comes complete with a solid stainless retaining pin with no ball bearings to fall out. Mechanism for retaining the pin is contained in the bolt."
  • http://www.belsales.co.uk/
  • possibly available from Compulsive Paintball
  • avail in 2K lengths -- back black may be required to match length.